Steps For Removing Wallpaper
1. Lay drop cloths over carpet and anything else you want to protect. Use small nails to attach to wall edges if necessary -- drop cloths move around a lot even if you nail them, however. Moving furniture out of the room to be stripped will make your life easier.
2. Shut off all circuit breakers to any room outlets and lights. If you have a job and an active weekend social life, and therefore will be doing this at night after work, invest in a halogen work lamp (US $20 at Sears or Home Depot) and a long extension cord.
3. Remove covers from outlets and switch plates, and keep them and their screws in a safe place.
4. Fill a bucket with hot water, as hot as you can stand, the hotter the better. Mix in the stripping solution according to the instructions on the bottle. A 20% solution of vinegar is also effective, cheaper, and not as toxic. Another cheap alternative is fabric softener (whatever the water temperature) at about 25-50% solution. It doesn't have to be fancy fabric softener.
5. Do not score the wallpaper, as the instructions say. This will only make your life more difficult. By all means do not buy a Paper Tiger. It will break instantly. Often these devices make small holes in the wall that then need filled in with plaster repair and resanded making this chore even larger. Note: Some wallpaper may have a coating which makes it impervious to water, thus requiring the use of the paper tiger. (Not everyone agrees on this. Remember, the only purpose of the Paper Tiger is to perforate the surface of the wallpaper. This allows the solution to soak through better, especially on vinyl wallpaper. If you break it, you're pushing way too hard.)
6. Soak your paint roller in the hot water / stripping solution mix. A sponge or large paint brush also works well.
7. "Paint" the stripping solution mix onto the wallpaper. Do an area only as big as you think you can strip in 15 minutes' time. As you strip, you'll get a better idea of how large an area this is. The wall paper darkens as it's now wet. You'll get a feel for how dark it needs to be and how thick the solution needs to be to work most effectively.
8. Let the solution soak into the wallpaper, and then repeat step 7. But don't allow so much time that the solution drys, or it's not as effective.
9. Start peeling. Try to get pieces as big as possible. Have fun with it -- take your frustrations of the day out on the wallpaper. Have a huge garbage can nearby. Often you can use a paint spatula or other scraping tools to aid you.
10. If your solution mix gets too cold (you won't be able to strip wallpaper as easily), or cloudy with old wallpaper glue, dump it out and make a new batch as in step 5. Don't dump into a sink or tub as this may make your drains go slower. Dump down the toilet or outside if you are using nontoxic substances, although these still may lead to plant bleaching/death.
11. Repeat steps 8-11 throughout the room until no wallpaper is left. If there are multiple layers of wallpaper, only take off one layer at a time. If your previous homeowner, like mine, was a complete and total moron who painted over wallpaper then put another layer of wallpaper over, do not use paint stripping solution. It irritates the skin and stinks to high heaven. Chip at the paint with a razor blade tool instead, getting as much paint as you can, then strip. Often, the painted wallpaper will come off if enough solution can soak behind the paint, making your job slightly easier.
12. If there is still glue remaining behind, you can use more solution to wash down the walls. Do not overly wet the walls or portions of your drywall beneath may give way, needing to be filled in more with plaster and sanded down.
13. Let the walls dry.
14. Ah, the pleasant sight of unprimed plaster walls, dirtied with brown spots of old wallpaper glue. Wasn't that easy? Don't answer that. Now would be a great time, if you're handy with electrical work, to replace those pesky two-prong outlets more than twice as old as you are with three-prong outlets that can actually be used without fear of fire. I'm sure there's another eHow article on this.
15. Replace outlet covers, turn on the breakers, and clean up.
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Installing ceramic floor tiles
Ceramic tiles are fairly easy to install. Choose them according to their end use. Ceramic tiles have one major prerequisite - you must have a smooth and rigid sub-floor to support the installation. They are not flexible and therefore can crack if installed over a rough surface or thin sub-floor. If you must put down a sub-floor, make sure it doesn't block the openings for existing doors. When installing ceramic floor tile in the bathroom, remove the toilet in order to lay the tiles under toilet base.
1. Determine the layout
2. Apply the adhesive
3. Lay down the tiles
4. Remove the spacers
5. Let the adhesive set
6. Cutting the tiles
7. Apply the grout
8. Seal the grout
1. Determine the layout
Preparing the installation of the tiles is a crucial step not to be neglected. The result of your work will depend on this preparation.
1.1
Using a chalk line, snap a line perpendicular to the main entrance into the room, from the centre of the wall to the other end of the room, and another line parallel to the entrance wall.
1.2
Starting from the intersection of both lines, lay tiles on the floor along the line marking the length of the room, without adhesive, to see how they fit. Use a spacer in between each tile. The spacer can be the side of another tile or you can purchase plastic spacers from your home renovation centre.
1.3
When you reach the end of the room and can no longer put down a full tile, align another row of tiles along the line marking the width of the room.
1.4
Based on the amount of remaining space at both ends of the second row, determine how much you need to shift the tiles to achieve equal borders on both ends of the room. Snap a second line marking the length of the room based on this measurement. The intersection of this new line and the line marking the width of the room will become your starting point. If your room is very irregular and filled with obstacles, lay the tiles in such a way as to limit the number of cuts.
2. Apply the adhesive
Using a notched trowel, apply tile adhesive to an area equal to two or three tiles in the starting corner. As you lay down each tile, give the tiles a "jiggle" to set them in to the adhesive.
3. Lay down the tiles
Use the spacer to make sure the tiles are spaced evenly. You can use a rubber mallet or a block of wood and a hammer to gently tap down tiles that are too high.
4. Remove the spacers
Remove the spacers as you work your way back and forth across the room, before the adhesive has time to dry and without walking over the freshly glued tiles. If your tiles are very thick and the spacers are embedded into the adhesive, you can leave them in place and simply apply grout over them.
Repeat steps 2, 3 and 4 until the whole surface is covered.
5. Let the adhesive set
Let the full tiles set for 24 hours. Once the adhesive has set, you can carefully walk on the tiles to cut and install the border tiles.
6. Cutting the tiles
To cut the border tiles, lay a tile exactly over the last full tile. Place your spacer against the wall. Next, take another full tile and place it against the spacer with the edges lined up with the other loose tile. Insert an object under the tile that is over a void.
6.1
Make a line across the centre tile along the edge of the top tile.
6.2
Place the tile to be cut into the tile cutter and hold it firmly against the stop while you score the line.
Be sure to score the line only once.
6.3
Cut the tile by lowering the lever.
6.4
Set the cut tiles into the adhesive the same way you did with the full tiles.
For complex cuts, you can use a tile saw or tile nippers.
6.5
You can use cut tiles as a baseboard for finishing. To do so, install the tiles on the wall with adhesive, taking care to insert a spacer under the tiles to leave room for the grout.
7. Apply the grout
The grouting phase can begin 24 hours after the last tiles have been installed.
7.1
Wet the tiles with clean water before grouting. The grout mixture will become slightly more liquefied and will spread better. As well, the grout will bind less readily to the tile surfaces making cleaning much easier.
After having mixed the grout according to the manufacturer's recommendations and you have let it slake, pour part of it directly over the tiles and allow it to penetrate into the joints. Apply the grout with a rubber float at a 45° angle, working it into the spaces. Apply the grout in sections of 10 sqft (1 m2) at a time.
7.2
Grout mixture dries very quickly, so the ideal situation is to have one person trowelling in the grout and a second person, 3 to 5 minutes later, wiping off the excess in the direction in which it was installed.
Wipe the excess grout off the tile faces with a damp sponge. Use as little water as possible in order not
to dilute the grout between the tiles. For best results, repeat this operation at least two or three times.
7.3
After 24 hours, go back over the tile faces and clean off any remaining grout residue with a wet mop.
8. Seal the grout
Allow the grout to cure for about ten days. Then brush the grout with a silicone sealer or follow the manufacturer's recommendations.
Go ahead, start the job. You’ll see that it’s not as hard as it looks!
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Updating Kitchen Cabinets
Sometimes all your cabinets need to give your kitchen a whole new look is a bit of basic repair or a few minor improvements. Changing your pulls, for example, can completely alter the look of cabinetry as can Refacing or Repainting them. If your cabinet doors droop or shut poorly, repair or change the hinges. First, try tightening the screws. If a screw won't tighten, remove it, squirt a little white glue into the hole and insert some broken-up wooden toothpicks to fill it up (wipe off any excess glue). After the glue dries, cut the toothpicks flush with the surface using a utility knife, and drive the screw into the refurbished hole (you may have to drill a small pilot hole first).
Exposed decorative hinges can also add a new design element to your cabinets. Hinges can be found at home improvement centers in virtually every style and size, and in a vast range of materials. You're sure to find replacements that will both fit your cabinets and perk up their appearance.
If it seems that your cabinet doors are perpetually hanging open, you may want to switch to self-closing hinges, which do not require a separate catch to keep the door closed. If you have European frameless-style cabinets and the doors are out of alignment, you may simply need to adjust the hinges. Most of the hinges that attach doors to these types of cabinets can be adjusted with only the turn of a screw to bring the door into line. These hinges are usually mounted directly to the interior cabinet side and are hidden when the door is closed. They do not require a catch since they are self-closing. Another common, and easily accomplished, repair is adjusting drawers that don't close easily or well. This problem can usually be solved by re-attaching or replacing the drawer's glides. For the smoothest, most trouble-free drawer opening and closing, purchase prefabricated metal ball-bearing glide sets that attach to the drawer bottom or sides, depending on your drawer's construction and current type of glide. The manufacturer's instructions should detail all you need to know for proper installation.
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The Scoop on Snow Shoveling Safety
Snow falls, usually leaving piles of the stuff to clear from your sidewalks and driveway. Consider the following before you grab your shovel after a major snowfall.
The good news is that 15 minutes of snow shoveling counts as moderate physical activity according to the 1996 Surgeon General's Report on Physical Activity and Health. We all should aim for at least 30 minutes of moderate physical activity of some kind on most days of the week. Brisk walking or social dancing are other ways to fit in moderate physical activity during cold winter months.
The bad news is that researchers have reported an increase in the number of fatal heart attacks among snow shovelers after heavy snowfalls. This rise may be due to the sudden demand that shoveling places on an individual's heart. Snow shoveling may cause a quick increase in heart rate and blood pressure. One study determined that after only two minutes of shoveling, sedentary mens' heart rates rose to levels higher than those normally recommended during aerobic exercise.
Shoveling may be vigorous activity even for healthy college-aged students. A study performed by researchers at North Dakota State University determined that, based on heart rate, shoveling was a moderately intense activity for college-aged subjects most of the time but was vigorous activity during about one-third of their shoveling time of 14 minutes.
Shoveling can be made more difficult by the weather. Cold air makes it harder to work and breathe, which adds some extra strain on the body. There also is the risk for hypothermia, a decrease in body temperature, if one is not dressed correctly for the weather conditions.
Those most at risk for a heart attack include:
* Anyone who has already had a heart attack.
* Individuals with a history of heart disease.
* Those with high blood pressure or high cholesterol levels.
* Smokers.
* Individuals leading a sedentary lifestyle.
Not necessarily. Not everyone who shovels snow is going to have a heart attack. Snow shoveling can be good exercise when performed correctly and with safety in mind.
Also consider back safety when shoveling snow. Even if you exercise regularly and are not at risk for heart disease, shoveling improperly could lead to a strained back. If you've been inactive for months and have certain risk factors, use some common sense before taking on the task of snow shoveling.
Be heart healthy and back friendly while shoveling this winter with these tips:
* If you are inactive and have a history of heart trouble, talk to your doctor before you take on the task of shoveling snow.
* Avoid caffeine or nicotine before beginning. These are stimulants, which may increase your heart rate and cause your blood vessels to constrict. This places extra stress on the heart.
* Drink plenty of water. Dehydration is just as big an issue in cold winter months as it is in the summer.
* Dress in several layers so you can remove a layer as needed.
* Warm up your muscles before shoveling, by walking for a few minutes or marching in place. Stretch the muscles in your arms and legs, because warm muscles will work more efficiently and be less likely to be injured.
* Pick the right shovel for you. A smaller blade will require you to lift less snow, putting less strain on your body.
* Begin shoveling slowly to avoid placing a sudden demand on your heart. Pace yourself and take breaks as needed.
* Protect your back from injury by lifting correctly.
* Stand with your feet about hip width for balance and keep the shovel close to your body. Bend from the knees (not the back) and tighten your stomach muscles as you lift the snow. Avoid twisting movements. If you need to move the snow to one side reposition your feet to face the direction the snow will be going.
* Most importantly — listen to your body. Stop if you feel pain!
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Holiday Decorating
What to look for in Christmas lights
The lights you use should be UL rated for your purpose (outside or inside). LED (Light Emitting Diode) holiday lights are the newest type, offering superior energy efficiency and over 100,000 hours of bulb life. Next, the main considerations are color and spacing. White or multi-colored lights are traditional, but many other colors are available. Be aware that some red lights can look pink when lit. Also, blue or purple lights may look a bit muted on a tree. Finally, when you're in the store, compare the length of the cord (spacing) between each light bulb. Choose the sets that have shortest spacing between each bulb, since more lights (and less cord) will show on your tree. See our Top Picks for Holiday Lighting.
How to keep lights from tangling during storage
Keep light strings wound around cardboard tubes (such as paper towel rolls). Or wind each string onto a flat piece of sturdy cardboard about 12" x 15" with the plug end secured into a slit. You can also "stack" every other bulb into one hand, making loops. Near the end, wind the final foot or two of cord around the middle of this bundle, securing the plug under the last loop of cord.
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Removing Carpet Stains
For heavily soiled carpets, shampooing is recommended, rather than spot-cleaning. Wet-cleaner machines spray and remove hot detergent solution while cleaning the carpet.
Instructions:
Difficulty: Moderately Easy
Things You'll Need
* Rubber Gloves
* Vinegar
* Prespray Carpet Cleaner
* Vacuum Cleaners & Accessories
* Wet Cleaner Vacuums
* Carpet Shampoos
Step One
Purchase or rent a wet-cleaner machine also known as a steamer, at a hardware or grocery store. When you rent a machine, the necessary cleaning products are usually included or can be purchased at the rental store.
Step Two
Vacuum the floor thoroughly.
Step Three
Spray heavily soiled areas with prespray or traffic-lane cleaner. For really dirty areas, increase the amount of prespray used instead of increasing the amount of carpet shampoo.
Step Four
Fill the machine's hose or reservoir with hot tap water.
Step Five
Use the machine and carpet shampoo according to the steamer manufacturer's instructions.
Step Six
Maximize the amount of water removed from the carpet by making a water-extraction pass with the water spray on, and then again with the spray off. Test the carpet with your hand. If your hand comes away with water droplets, extract again with the spray off; if your hand comes away damp and the carpet feels wrung out, you have extracted correctly.
Step Seven
Wait overnight for the carpet to dry before walking on it. To dry thoroughly, open windows and use fans.
Tips & Warnings
* Special solutions are available to treat pet stains and odors.
* To help your cleaning last longer, neutralize detergent residue left on the carpet by steaming with a vinegar-water rinse made up of 1 c. vinegar and 1 gallon water.
* Oversaturating the carpet can cause water to soak through and damage the floor underneath.
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Measuring Tips For Blinds
- Use a steel tape for accuracy.
- Measure width and write it down, then length and write it down.
- When measuring and ordering width always comes first.
- Measure to the nearest 1/8 inch.
- Do not take your own deductions. The factory will take necessary deductions and allowances.
- Double-check all measurements.
Inside Mount
The window covering will hang inside the window frame.
Width: Measure the EXACT distance across the window from the inside edge of the frame to the opposite inside edge in three places. Use the narrowest dimension.
Height: Measure the EXACT distance from the top inside edge of the frame to the bottom inside edge of the frame in three places. Use the longest dimension for horizontal coverings, and the shortest for vertical coverings.
Window Depth: The amount of space from the back of the window or obstruction to the windows outer edge (see below).
Flush Mount
Blind is mounted back into the window opening so that the valance is even with the window opening.
- 1.50" for 1" and 1/2" Mini Blinds, 3/8" Honeycomb Shades, 3/8” Cellular Shades and Pleated Shade
- 2.25" for 1" Wood Blinds, 3/4" Honeycomb Shades and 3/4” Cellular Shades.
- 3.00" for 2" Aluminum Blinds and 2" Wood blind
- 4.75" for Vertical Blinds
Outside Mount - On the Frame
The window covering will hang outside actual window frame, flush with outside edges of the window trim.
Width: Measure the EXACT distance from the outside edge of the left side of the window frame to the outside edge of the right side of the window frame. This will be the finished width of your window covering.
Height: Measure the EXACT distance from the top outside edge of the window frame the bottom outside edge of the frame. This will be the finished height of your window covering.
Outside Mount - With Overlap
The window covering will hang outside the actual window frame, over lapping the window frame enough to cover for maximum privacy and light blockage. Recommended for ROLLER SHADES and VERTICAL BLINDS.
Width: Measure the EXACT distance from the outside edge of the left side of the window frame to the outside edge of the right side of the window frame and add at least 2 inches for horizontal blinds and 4 - 6 inches for verticals.
Height: Measure the EXACT distance from the top outside edge of the window frame the bottom outside edge of the frame and add at least 3 inches for horizontal blinds and 4 inches for verticals.
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Eavestroughs
Eavestroughs become damaged for a number of reasons. Metal eavestroughs can peel if improperly painted or primed or if lightweight material was used, it can be dented when a ladder is braced against it. In areas where there is extreme cold in winter, the freeze-thaw cycle can cause eaves to be bent out of shape by the weight of the ice that forms in them. There are a number of options open to those replacing their eaves. The very simple vinyl, steel or the continuous metal that is done by a contractor. Note: before installing new eavestroughs replace any rotted or damaged fascia board. Vinyl is tough, maintenance free & moderately priced. Vinyl is usually the best choice for homeowner installation. A vinyl eavestrough is simple to use, can be installed quickly & uses few tools. Read & follow the manufacturers directions completely to ensure installation is proper for drainage.
Supports & hangers are attached to the fascia board with screws, 2 inches on centre & the track is simply snapped into it. Expansion joints must be installed & a special cleaner & adhesive are used for assembling the eaves. The downspouts are easily put up as the joints snap together without a sealant. They are held in place to the side of the house with a special bracket. Vinyl is a durable product & dents in vinyl pop back out. If you dont feel qualified to perform the proper installation, call a professional.
Today, most new homes have continuous aluminum eavestroughs. These are also the highly recommended replacement for existing homes. Continuous eavestroughs are manufactured on site. This is not a do-it-yourself project. Expensive machinery is needed to manufacture the trough. The advantage of continuous eavestroughs is that there are no joints, no matter how long the run. The only single joint is at the corner. This single joint is well sealed with a high quality silicone. The material used for the eaves is prefinished aluminum. The finish is applied in the factory by a baking process. The advantage of this is that the finish will last a long time & aluminum doesnt rust. The troughs are sloped about one to one and one-quarter inches per 30 to 40 ft. run. Some houses are not level, so take careful measurements & determine the proper slope beforehand.
Another type of eavestrough is steel which is either galvanized or with an enamel finish. It is strong & usually the least expensive but subject to corrosion. Use a rust-inhibiting primer before painting. When painting new galvanized steel, wash it first with a 50-50 solution of white vinegar & water. Galvanized eaves are available in varying lengths. They come with elbows, corners & downspouts. Assembling them is likely the most difficult of all three types available. Solder is used & all joints must be cleaned properly if the solder is to hold. Even the best eaves need maintenance. Clean the troughs at least once a year.
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Selecting The Right Type of Paint
These interior painting ideas will guide you to the appropriate paints for each area of your home.
Flat paint
* lowest sheen available
* the standard for most walls
Satin paint
* has a slight sheen and are easier to clean than flat paint
* can be used on any wall, but test in a small area first to see if you like it
Semi-gloss paint
* great for kitchens, bathrooms, and children's rooms because they are highly durable
Gloss paint
* has a high sheen and are usually used on doors and in areas that are susceptible to getting dirty
* used to trim base boards and door frames
The amount of paint you need for each room will depend on the size of the area to be painted. Use this formula as a guide:
Total length of all walls x Average wall height = Total Area
For example, if the total length of all four walls in your living room is a combined 80 feet (20 ft. x 4 walls) and the wall height is 9 feet, then the total area for the room is 720 square feet (80 ft. x 9ft).
A gallon of paint will cover about 375 square feet. So for your living room, you would need about 2 gallons of paint (720 sq. ft. /375 sq. ft. per gallon coverage).
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Moving Tip - Packing Fragile Items
For fragile items you should use sturdy, medium size cartons with 3-4 inches of crumpled newspaper in the bottom of the carton for extra cushioning. Everyday plates can be wrapped in stacks of four, however, the more delicate the plates the smaller the stack should be.
Place one plate in a corner of your stack of white, unprinted newspaper and using 1-2 layers of paper, pull the corner up and over the top plate. Fold the side corners of the paper into the middle and then place another plate on top. Repeat the process until you have four plates in a stack, individually protected by layers of paper. Finish by rolling the stack away from you to the far corner until the bundle is completely wrapped and protected. Place the bundle into the carton on edge. Be sure to never lay plates flat in a carton.
Plates can form the bottom layer of the carton, followed by bowls in the next layer and finally by cups, glassware and other light, fragile items. Separate each layer in the carton with a cushion of newspaper and ensure that each wrapped piece is snug in its layer to prevent movement. Empty spaces can be filled with crushed newspaper and the top of the carton should be marked "Fragile" and "This Side Up".
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